Panthenol is the alcohol form of pantothenic acid, better known as vitamin B5, and is often called pro-vitamin B5. On ingredient lists you will usually see panthenol or D-panthenol, also called dexpanthenol, the biologically active form. It mixes easily into water-based products, which helps make it one of the most widely used ingredients in shampoos, conditioners, creams and balms.
Pantothenic acid itself was discovered in 1931, and the first skin preparation containing dexpanthenol appeared in 1944. Unlike pantothenic acid, panthenol is well absorbed through the skin, where it is quickly converted into pantothenic acid, a building block of coenzyme A. Coenzyme A helps the skin make the fatty acids and lipids that keep its outer layer healthy.
Panthenol is hygroscopic, meaning it attracts and holds on to water. That is why it helps hair hold moisture and feel smoother, and why it is so common in conditioners. On the skin, studies have shown that dexpanthenol creams improve hydration and support barrier repair, for example a 5% cream used twice daily for a week on experimentally irritated skin.