L-cystine is formed when two molecules of the sulphur-containing amino acid cysteine link together. The body can make cysteine from methionine, so it is not classed as essential, and both forms are found in protein-rich foods such as meat, eggs, dairy, legumes and whole grains.
Cystine is a major component of keratin, the tough protein that makes up hair and nails. The sulphur in cysteine forms disulphide bonds between keratin chains, and these bonds give hair its strength and rigidity. That is why cystine is described as one of the building blocks of hair and nails, and why it appears in many hair and nail formulas.
On labels you may see L-cystine or L-cysteine. They are related but not interchangeable, so an amount of one does not translate directly into the same amount of the other. Researchers have studied cysteine-containing blends in small hair studies, but a 2018 review noted that human clinical evidence is limited, and no health claims are authorised for cystine. It is often combined with methionine, biotin and zinc, with amounts listed in milligrams (mg).